Sunday, 31st December
Robert wasn’t very well on Saturday and was much worse today so went to a very basic clinic in Nyero trading centre while James took me and Felicity to Nyero Church, first for the English service at 7.00am. Kokas joined us there. Felicity preached. After the service, we were given breakfast in the vestry. I left Felicity with Kokas to go into the second, Ateso service where she preached again and baptised James’s newest grandchild, while I went to the clinic to see Robert. He thought he had malaria as he had been having long episodes of high fever, but there was no sign of parasites. So they tested for typhoid and then H.pylori infection (stomach/peptic ulcers) and to his surprise was found to be positive. So they gave him a cocktail of medication IV before starting oral triple therapy. We took him back to Elizabeth (James’ wife) where he was cared for while the rest of us went to Kokas’s home. We heard from Kirsten that she was flying today and should reach us on Tuesday.
As lunch wasn’t ready, James took us to visit his grandmother. She is well over 100, maybe even 116. She has had 25 live children and 7 “aborted”. We met her youngest who looked much older than me but thought he might be about 71!! Her husband died last year. When asked what food she ate to keep her healthy for so long, she said cowpeas but never chicken, ever in her life!
Back with Kokas, we had a late lunch. Nearly all the family had come home from far and wide to see us! There was a short but very heavy storm with incredible thunder and lightning. Everywhere, it is green and damp because of the rain – it should be the long, hot, dry season but ….. climate change. It means people don’t know when to plant. If the dry season suddenly sets in, then all the seed planted will be lost instead of being used for food. It’s this unpredictability which leads to famine.
We had a very emotional evening sharing memories. All the children, now adults and married with their own children told stories of my past visits – many of which I had forgotten. Kokas was too sad to speak. I talked about my desire (already discussed with my family and agreed) that when I die, some of my ashes will be brought to Teso.


James took Inna and Patrick back to Robert for the night while Felicity and I settled into the newly built but unfinished house for a long night’s sleep.
New Year’s Day 2024
We heard ululating in the villages around as the New Year started but we slept well. All churches here have special New Year services.
We planted the tree we had brought as well as two avocados Kokas had got for us to plant before going back to James and his training centre for final farewells.
Robert was much better – he’d slept well and had started eating. We reached John Omagor’s home in Kobwin at about 5.00. The home is full of little grandchildren, including the 18-month old twins whose mother died after childbirth and is buried here. There is a particularly strong bond between them and John which is lovely to see.
Robert had to go back to Soroti (and took Patrick with him) to sort out preparations for his traditional marriage on Saturday. We were expecting that Kerstin would reach Soroti by bus this afternoon (Tuesday) in time for them to bring her back to Kobwin with them. But we’ve had no contact and the sun is about to set.
We went up the rocks behind John’s home this afternoon.








STOP PRESS!! Robert and Patrick have just returned from Soroti and, surprise surprise, they found Kerstin just as they were leaving Soroti! So, a week after leaving home, we’re finally all together and all feeling “fair” and “fine”.

Kerstin has just set up her tent with Robert’s help! The sun has set.